Women's Fancy Shawl Fascination

A New Dance to Old Powwow Culture

Sep 2, 2009

The powwow is a living part of Native American culture. As each generation passes, new things are being added. During the 1940's, the category of Fancy Shaw was added.

The modern day powwow is an exciting show of dancing, singing, drumming, and expeditions of Native American culture. There are many categories of dancing, and all ages can be seen participating in their chosen style and category. Due to the intertribal feel of most powwows, dancers reflect their tribal and family identity in their beadwork, ribbon work, and specific dance steps. The newest category to the powwow circuit is the Women’s Fancy Shawl. This is the women’s equivalent to the Men’s Fancy Feather. It is flashy, athletic, and a crowd obsession.

Shawl Dancing Begins

Powwow dancing pre-World War II on the Plains would have shown spectators that fast and fancy dancing was reserved for men only. Women were on the outside of the dance arena, bouncing to the music in place. In social dances, like the rabbit dance and round dance, women were allowed to move about in the dance arena. It just so happens that the dances where large group dances. The Women’s Fancy Shaw category is said to have started during the 1940’s and 1950’s in the Northern Plains region. It was said to have started by young women who wanted a more upbeat dance style, to show off that they could dance as spirited as the young men. Many elders frowned on this style of dance for young women, but as time marched on, more and more young women began to learn and perform the dances at other powwows. After a couple of decades, the category became a recognized dance style at many powwows.

Mimicry and What the Attire Looks Like

Over the decades, while this dance has been building and perfecting in style, a system of complex footwork has become the blueprint of all refined fancy dancers. Women in this category can be seen spinning, kicking, and bouncing to the drumbeat. Some dancers have been taught that the movements are to symbolize the butterfly hatched from the cocoon and flying on the wind in a beautiful display of color. Other dancers are taught to mimic birds in flight, floating on wind currents and moving to show gracefulness in the sky.

The regalia can be seen as a large shawl draped over the shoulders, and extends down to below the butt or to the mid thigh. It is held by women grasping the top corners of the shawl. Sewn onto three sides of the shawl are long ribbon fringes. These fringes can be one color or multiple colors. The dresses worn are light weight in fabric choice. Usually the dresses themselves are plain, and the shawls and capes are highly decorated. The variations of the dresses and shawls are unique from dancer to dancer, and from tribe to tribe. Roughly, the dress or skirt ends just below the knee, or mid calf. Leggings and moccasins are worn, or high-top moccasins can be worn. Although the dresses or skirt/shirt combo have become light weight, the capes can sometimes be fully beaded and extremely heavy. Other beadwork that accent the hair and neck can also be a combo of weight and complex style determined by the dancer. The beadwork often reflects tribal or family connection.

At powwows today, fancy shawl dancers are usually the majority among young women. As new dancers emerge, the steps are becoming more complex and spirited with new innovations and variations. The regalia is also becoming more elaborate, with bigger overly decorated shawls and highly detailed beadwork capes and accessories. As powwows continue to evolve and grow, the fancy shawl category can only continue to gain in popularity as the most energetic and organized frantic dance that women have ever been able to demonstrate.

The copyright of the article Women's Fancy Shawl Fascination in Native American/First Nations History is owned by Maureen Zieber. Permission to republish Women's Fancy Shawl Fascination in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.